CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY: READY-TO-WEAR SS21

In lieu of a runway show, Charles Jeffrey channelled the uncertainty and restrictions brought by the pandemic into his latest Loverboy SS21 collection in a collaborative project with Tim Walker. Often finding inspiration whilst walking and listening to music, Charles designed The Healing from ‘a moment of fright’ as he thought about poisonous creatures using bright colours to repel predators. Incepted from this ‘stay-away’ feeling, the idea went on to mirror the fear of human interaction experienced during Covid and materialised into one cohesive edit faring themes of aversion and healing. “I spoke to my colleagues about chromotherapy, looked at Rorschach tests and how colour is used to heal the seven chakras of the body. For me, clothing is about whether you want to be averted by it or use it to heal you.”

The result? A joyful, vibrantly coloured collection of clothes that are oddly uplifting, as if they have gone through a ‘healing process’ themselves. “It (the collection) turned out to be sexy this time. Even though we’ve done peacocking before, created clothes to show off in a club space; this is a first for me.” Splicing historical references with his Glaswegian roots, Charles often uses his signature tartan print to create gender-bending looks suited for East London club couture. This time was no different. Stitching shirring elastic into the trademark tartan using smocking, the aposematic collection reflected all things ‘spikey’ to avert its viewers.

A plethora of looks feature tartan; while others are emblazoned with psychedelic knits, fishnet stockings and primitive symbols of poison dart frogs, orb spiders and deadly nightshade plants. Donned by Loverboy’s diverse community of queer artists and models, are ensembles collated with logoed bucket hats, colossal platform shoes and tailored suits. Evocative of Gareth Pugh’s SS18 blazing-red boxy silhouettes - Flatpack suits, or as Charles calls them ‘Hope Suits’ are amongst the standout pieces of this collection. Hand- embroidered with words like ‘Hope’, ‘Community’ and ‘Health’ across them; these Pagan costumes are inspired by Scottish folk dress to ward off evil spirits.

The Healing is brought to life by Tim Walker. Capturing the Shangri-la- esque vision of Jeffrey’s designs with his trademark photography, Walker uses warped images and elements of nudity in this shoot. The collection is styled by Matthew Joseph, who is the creative genius behind using twigs to create quiver-inducing looks.

Inspired by JW Anderson’s SS21 interactive exhibition, Charles published a concertina-style look book to present this collection. Jeffrey followed his desire to create a long-lasting collectible in an industry of ephemera. He says, “You open it (box), it’s as bombastic as I am and takes up space.”Keeping in line with the brand’s egalitarian approach, the look book is also available to purchase on Loverboy’s website.

Anguish, healing, self-love, theatricality. What’s not to love about this collection? By letting us inside his vividly coloured hyper-surrealist world, Jeffrey showed what future of London’s nightlife looks like, and for that we are grateful.